In her Fall 2025 collection, titled “Leech,” designer Elena Velez delved into the complexities of feminine identity, presenting a narrative that intertwines nautical themes with explorations of contentious female archetypes. The show, held at Artechouse, transformed a former boiler room into an immersive maritime experience, complete with projections of lighthouses and ships, setting the stage for a journey into the depths of the unknown.
A Theatrical Immersion
Guests descended into a dimly lit space, greeted by the ambient sounds of ocean waves and visuals that evoked a mythic seascape. This setting introduced Velez’s thematic focus on the dualities within female identity, encapsulated in her assertion that the “EV woman is both Eve and the Serpent—both the sailor and the siren.”
Exploring Female Archetypes
Velez categorized her muses into three distinct archetypes:
- The Captain’s Daughter: Symbolizing demure innocence, this archetype was represented through ethereal and sweet designs, reflecting a virginal purity.
- The Land Walker: An anti-Disney Ursula figure, embodying a seductive presence on land, luring sailors to their doom.
- The Leech: A morally ambiguous entity, detached from ethics, representing a viscous and corrosive force that both protects and erodes.
These archetypes, while distinct, often blended within the collection, suggesting a composite view of womanhood’s multifaceted nature.
Design Highlights
The collection showcased Velez’s signature blend of raw and refined aesthetics:
- Textural Play: Ropes, netting, and metal hardware accentuated the nautical theme, while latex-dipped fabrics created a wet-look effect, enhancing the maritime narrative.
- Intricate Details: Corsets adorned with keys and hardware fastenings glistened like sunken treasures, adding depth to the storytelling.
- Silhouette Exploration: From a black strapless minidress trimmed with white ruffles resembling sea foam to a long, algae-green knit dress exuding simple elegance, Velez balanced structured tailoring with fluid drapery.
These elements combined to create a collection that was both avant-garde and wearable, challenging traditional perceptions of femininity.
A Designer’s Evolution
Velez’s Fall 2025 collection marks a return to her theatrical roots, emphasizing autobiographical elements—her mother being a ship captain—and reinforcing her commitment to exploring complex female narratives. As she continues to navigate the fashion industry, Velez remains steadfast in her mission to carve a space that aligns with her unique values and vision.
In “Leech,” Elena Velez offers a profound commentary on the multifaceted nature of womanhood, presenting a collection that is as thought-provoking as it is visually captivating.